Wow. What happened? Suddenly you're in a world that shimmers like a Klimt painting, where angels swoop down with Mozart on their lips and gold trays full of cream cakes. Oh - you're dreaming of Vienna.

* Walking and cycling tours that take you off the tourist trails
* All you need to know about Leberka"s (horse-meat sausage) and those famous pastries
* Recommendations from Viennese locals get you on the inside track
* Four-poster, one star? Try our list of Viennese accommodation